My First Proper Onsen Experience in Japan

Today I went to my first ever proper public onsen in Japan.

I’m sitting in the gift shop / foyer area feeling completely relaxed, revived, restored. You’re not allowed to take pictures, so I’m writing this while it’s fresh in my body.

After my 5am Eihei-ji temple tour, I took a nap, checked out, and then took a cab (about £55) to Yamanaka Onsen Town.

The Yamanaka public onsen sits right in the centre of this tiny, walkable onsen town. Having been to Switzerland a few times last year, it struck me that onsen towns are the Japanese equivalent of ski resorts — compact, self-contained worlds. Small shops and restaurants that could be mom-and-pop or quietly luxurious. From the outside, you can’t really tell.

I dropped my bags at Hanamurakasai (impeccable, but I’ll write about that later) and wandered down the absolutely empty streets to get soba. I honestly didn’t see a soul.

The soba spot was perfection. Like a movie set. The colour palette. The husband and wife. The TV playing quietly in the background. I settled into chicken udon with green onions and tempura — simple, nourishing, exactly what I needed. My best meal so far.

Then I went to Family Mart. Because why not. I love this store. And then I crossed the road into the onsen.